July 01, 2009

The Hardest Part of an Everest Expedition

NOTE: This is a blog entry I wrote during this spring's First Ascent "Return to Everest" expedition. It never ran on the blog though, so I thought I'd post it here as it speaks from the heart - or at least from my heart - as to the most challenging aspect of big Himalayan expeditions.

There were, however, some of my writings published on the First Ascent blog. If you're interested, they are:

________________________________________________________________________________________

The Hardest Part


There's nothing easy about climbing mountains. They're big, cold, and dangerous. You get sick, you get tired, your head hurts and your muscles ache and your lungs burn. And, on Everest, all of that is magnified in the rarefied air most often occupied by jets.

But, to me, these are not the hardest parts of climbing big mountains:

  • Everest is big...sure. That's kind of the point, I guess. If it weren't, well, there probably wouldn't be a city of some 800 people at it's base every spring.
  • Everest is cold. It sure is. But, we've got the best gear in the industry, designed by those of us who live and breathe the cold for our livelihoods. That, we can endure.
  • Everest is dangerous. Indeed, it is. But, so is life. If we avoid danger at all times in life, we run the risk, as George Mallory once wrote, of drying up like a pea in its shell. Or, to quote Helen Keller: Life is either a daring adventure, nothing at all. In the mountains, we accept the inherent risk, do our best to minimize it, and continue onward.
  • On Everest, you get sick, you get tired, your head hurts and your muscles ache and your lungs burn. All true.. But, I get sick at home, too. I get tired when I ride my bike through the Rockies, and I get headaches and muscle aches and my lungs burn whenever I push my body. All these things are real, but transitory. They're an uncomfortably, but inherent, part of the enterprise, and nothing I personally can't get used to in moderation.


So, if altitude, cold, danger, and bodily abuse is not the hard part, then what is? For me, it's simple: when I roll over in my tent and look at the western wall, I see gazing back at me the sweet, innocent eyes of my daughter, Lila, 21 months old. Next to her picture is one of my wife, Wende, supportive to the end of my adventures and life and career.

EB-EVEREST-11472: Jake Norton at The South Col, 26,000 feet, on Mount Everest.
Jake Norton at The South Col, 26,000 feet.


Gazing into their eyes, my heart aches. I yearn to be home, listening to my daughter practicing her first few words, helping her as she explores our world, sitting on the front porch with my family listening to the birds chirp about the onset of spring in Colorado. Looking at their pictures, the reality of where I am and how long I am gone comes rushing to me like a freight train, the longing to be home again approaching overwhelm.

The internal monologue then begins on cue. Why do you do this? Why didn't you choose a “real” job, one with “real” hours in a “real” location? You should've stayed in real estate in Colorado Springs...enough of this expedition stuff. Enough. Go home.

This, indeed, is the hardest part. But, also the easiest. Easy, because, in my heart of hearts, I know the mountains are as much a part of me – of my life, my personality, my very being – as anything, and to ignore that fundamental element of myself would be to ignore the need to breathe or eat or sleep. No, the mountains are where I thrive, they are the fuel for my soul, and the environment which humbles, grounds, and continually inspires me.

So, tomorrow, as I once again ascend through the Khumbu Icefall, I'll  have my pictures of Wende and Lila in my breast pocket, close to my heart. I'll feel them through the miles, and think about them every step. I'll minimize the risk, climb safe and steady, be both inspired and humbled each moment along the way. I will, as my wife and I always urge each other, live each day as if it were my last, and take inspiration from that perspective.  And, I'll know that, even though I miss Wende and Lila terribly and they are missing me, we all understand.

- Jake Norton is a climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

June 18, 2009

Mountain Climbing is Bad for the Brain

A-MCK-0052: Jake Norton self-portrait on McKinley, 1993. Not that this is news to anyone who spends a lot of time at high altitude...or, spends a lot of time with people who spend a lot of time at high altitude...but, according to The New York Times and the European Journal of Neurology, spending too much time at high altitude has deleterious effects on your brain.

Not good news for those of us who find it amusing to go to Everest time and time again!

But, scuba divers beware: the article says that findings in The British Journal of Sports Medicine indicate dangers for divers as well.

I guess that leaves us with no choice but to keep climbing, diving, and, well, living!

- Jake Norton is a climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.


June 17, 2009

Aconcagua article in Men's Journal...and online!

Men's Journal article on Aconcagua by Tim Sohn, with images by Jake Norton As some of you know, I was on Mount Aconcagua in Argentina as part of the Eddie Bauer/First Ascent expedition back in January. Along with us was Tim Sohn, a writer who was doing a story for Men's Journal. Aside from being a great guy (and a good climber!), Tim also is a great writer, and put together a nice article on the climb, which appeared in the May, 2009, issue of the magazine.

Several of my images from the expedition also appear in the article. Check it out online at Zinio by clicking the picture above, or here!

- Jake Norton is a climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

April 03, 2009

A missive from Deboche...

April 3, 2009 Deboche, Nepal, 12,200 feet

Sitting in the small village of Deboche, a stone's throw below the spiritual heart of the Khumbu region, Thyangboche Monastery. This is a stunning little village, comprised of a handful of small lodges tucked into dense rhododendron and birch forests. Fifty meters from our lodge - the Ama Dablam View Lodge - is an ancient nunnery covered in moss and lichen and looking more like the abode of hobbits than of nuns. And, gazing over it all is the silent sentinel of Ama Dablam, easily one of the most beautiful peaks in the world.

It has been a wonderful journey thus far - a great team, a great expedition, a great project, and all in one of my favorite places in the world. To say the least, I cannot complain.

Peter Whittaker and I were speaking on the trail from Namche Bazaar yesterday about the draw of the mountains. While everyone has their own reasons for going to the mountains, I think most would agree there is a humbling element found in the high peaks that is absent in many other realms. In the mountains, I personally find myself grounded...the stresses and strains of our modern, frenetic life are put into perspective, and life becomes peacefully reduced to the absolute fundamentals: breath, walk, eat, live. James Ramsey Ullman, I think, was right: "In the truest and most profound sense, [the mountain way] is an escape not from, but to, reality."

Climb on, and follow our expedition at http://blog.firstascent.com!

- Jake Norton

April 01, 2009

Onward from Namche Bazaar

Everest-left-and-lhotse-right-tower-over-sherpa-capital-namche-150x150 We arrived in Namche Bazaar two days ago, and will continue up valley tomorrow morning to the beautiful village of Deboche, just below Thyangboche Monastery.

I will write more at a later date - it has been a busy time shooting on the trail. However, please follow our expedition on the official expedition blog: http://blog.firstascent.com.

The weather is beautiful, the team is strong, and we're all looking forward to moving upward and onward!

- Jake Norton is a climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

March 23, 2009

A Return to Everest

N-EVR-2360: The summit of Mount Everest rises above the silhouette of Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags and chortens at sunrise in Pangboche, Khumbu, Nepal. I'm off again to Mount Everest, my sixth expedition to the mountain. It is an exciting time, and I am looking forward to returning to this mountain which has been such a huge part of my life over the years.

And, it is even more exciting because of the project at hand: Eddie Bauer's Return to Everest.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I have the great honor of being the photographer for and a team member of the Eddie Bauer/Whittaker Mountaineering First Ascent team. In an exciting return to it's heritage as the premier mountain outfitter in the world, Eddie Bauer has launched this new line of top-notch outerwear for the mountains. Designed by some of the best climbers and guides in the world, this gear lives up to its motto of everything you need, nothing you don't.

We've already used the gear on Cotopaxi, Aconcagua, and in our own personal climbing adventures in the USA, and now will put it to the ultimate test: Everest.

With me on the mountain will be a stunning team of climbers and production, including:First Ascent from Eddie Bauer/Whittaker Mountaineering

  • Ed Viesturs - Pretty self-explanatory...One of the world's pre-eminent mountaineers , Ed will be going for his 7th summit of Everest without using bottled oxygen!
  • Peter Whittaker - Nephew of Jim Whittaker (1st American to summit Everest, 1963) and son of Lou Whittaker (founder of Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., and leader of the 1st American ascent of the North Ridge of Everest, 1984), Peter  will be on his 3rd attempt on Everest, and going strong for the summit.
  • Dave Hahn - The world's most experienced Everest guide, Dave is going for his 11th summit of Everest - more than any non-Nepali climber in the world!
  • Melissa Arnot - An accomplished climber and guide, Melissa will be trying to reach the top for the second time.
  • Seth Waterfall - A great climber, skier, and guide, Seth will be guiding along with Dave  Hahn, and hoping for his first summit of Everest.
  • Kent Harvey - Our cinematographer and Director of Photography, Kent has shot films the world over, and was with me on Everest in 2003.
  • Gerry Moffatt - As Head of Production, Gerry will be directing the video aspects of our expedition, and will be attempting his second ascent of Everest.
  • John Griber - Cameraman John Griber has covered expeditions around the world, and will be going for his second summit of Everest as well.
  • Cherie Silvera - Our field producer for the expedition, Cherie comes with a wealth of experience, having worked in the adventure film world for years. This is her 3rd production on Everest.
  • Tom Grimshaw - The man behind the cuts, Editor Tom Grimshaw will be working hard to deliver content during the expedition. But, I know he works well under pressure, having worked together on the Everest Rocks trek in 2007.

And, of course, we'll have an all-star cast of Nepali climbers and staff helping us along the way. High Altitude Dreams is a new outfitter for me personally, so I don't know their team, but they have a great reputation and I'm sure they'll run an excellent trip. And, as always, we'll be indebted beyond words to our Sherpa and Nepali climbing companions!

So, please tune in here at The MountainWorld Blog for updates on the climb and our adventures on the mountain. I'll do my best to update here every few days.

But, for regular updates with text, video, and photography (the latter by yours truly), please log onto the official website, www.firstascent.com. There you'll find information about the brand and the history of Eddie Bauer as well as links to the First Ascent blog and the simultaneous coverage of our expedition by National Geographic.


- Jake Norton is a climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

February 27, 2009

Everything you need...nothing you don't: Eddie Bauer returns.

FA_headline
Many of you have probably noticed I've been away from posting for quite some time. Along with lots of work speaking, shooting images, and working for the American Mountaineering Museum, I've also - since July - been involved in an exciting new project: the return of Eddie Bauer to its roots as the premier mountain outfitter in the world.


Bauer's history is the great mountains of the world is unparalleled:

  • The 2nd American attempt on K2 (1953)
  • The First Ascent of Gasherbrum I in

    Pakistan

    (1958)
  • The First Ascent of Masherbrum in

    Pakistan

    (1960)
  • The First American Ascent of Everest (1963)
  • The First Ascent of the Everest West Ridge (1963)
  • The First Ascent of Mount Kennedy in

    Canada

    (1965)
  • The First Ascent of Vinson Massif in

    Antarctica

    (1966)
  • The First American Ascent of Dhaulagiri in

    Nepal

    (1973)
  • The First American Ascent of Peak Lenin in the Russian Pamirs (1974)
  • The First Ascent of the North Ridge of Nanda Devi in

    India

    (1976)
  • The First Ascent of Great Trango Tower in

    Pakistan

    (1977)
  • The First American Ascent of Makalu in

    Nepal

    (1980)
  • The First Ascent of the Everest East Face (1983)

And, now, Bauer has teamed with friends and colleagues of mine to create truly a "dream team" of not  just climbers, but collaborators on every element of the new line of clothing and equipment. Peter Whittaker, Ed Viesturs, Dave Hahn, Melissa Arnot, Seth Waterfall, and Chad Peele round out the team of uber-experienced climbers and guides. I'm fortunate enough to be on board as photographer and a team member, and can say this is easily the most exciting project I've been involved with.

If you want to read more about the new First Ascent live by Eddie Bauer/Whittaker Mountaineering, please read the full press release here. Ad, check out the video below. And, be sure to visit www.firstascent.com for more information and to signup for the newsletter.

And, of course, check back here for updates!



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- Jake Norton is a climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

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