The MountainWorld™ Blog

In Memoriam: Walter Bonatti, 1930-2011

There are a few names that are synonymous with historic, legendary alpinism: Messner, Kukuczka, Buhl, etc. And, sadly, one of the early legends, Walter Bonatti, passed away at age 81 yesterday in Rome, Italy.

His climbing resume includes some of the great ascents and peaks of the world:

• The north face of the Grandes Jorasses (1949)
• The east face of Grand Capucin (1951)
• The north faces of Tre Cime di Lavaredo in winter (1953)
• The southwest pillar of the Aiguille du Dru (The Bonatti pillar) (1955)
• Grand Pilier d'Angle (with Tito Gobbi) (1957)
• Gasherbrum IV (1958)
• The Red Pillar of Brouillard (1959)
• Rondoy North - Patagonia (1961)
• The north face of the Grandes Jorasses in winter (1963)
• The north face of the Matterhorn: solo and in winter (1965)

Bonatti was also on the famous first ascent of K2 in 1954, which resulted in a decades-long feud with fellow teammates (and first ascensionists) Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni over oxygen supposedly used by Bonatti, thus hindering their eventual summit bid.

I've long admired Bonatti for many reasons, not least of which is his unwavering belief in mountaineering not as a sport, or a contest, but rather a life and a philosophy. Stewart Green shared this Bonatti quote on his website:

For me, the value of a climb is the sum of three inseparable elements, all equally important: aesthetics, history, and ethics. Together they form the whole basis of my concept of alpinism. Some people see no more in climbing mountains than an escape from the harsh realities of modern times. This is not only uninformed but unfair. I don’t deny that there can be an element of escapism in mountaineering, but this should never overshadow its real essence, which is not escape but victory over your own human frailty.

There is far more of Bonatti's amazing life and climbing career to read about, so please check out some of these articles:

• Rocky Life of a Mountain Man, Guardian-UK
• Walter Bonatti info by Stewart Green
• Walter Bonatti on SummitPost
• Lonely at the Top book review in the New York Times
• Walter Bonatti Makes Final Ascent in La Gazzetta dello Sport

You'll be missed, Walter, but your spirit will live on.

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

Kukuczka

Climb For Sudan: Determination for a Great Cause

As many of you know, I was honored a few months back when Joe Rogers and Nick Spivey asked me to be the Honorary Chair for their bold, philanthropic initiative Climb For Sudan. Initially, I had high hopes that time would allow me to climb with them on some of the great 14-ers in Colorado; unfortunately, I was kept busy by Challenge21 initiatives and my Rwenzori expedition, and was not able to climb with Nick and Joe.

But, they have done an extraordinary job - as expected - climbing strong for months as they ticked off summit after summit after summit throughout the state. The goal for Climb For Sudan was a bold one: Climb all 58 Colorado fourteeners (peaks above 14,000 feet) in 70 days and raise $100,000 for Project Education Sudan a dedicated 501(c)3 that build schools - and fosters hope - in South Sudan.

Sadly, after climbing the 54th peak on their list - Snowmass Mountain - Joe took a 40 foot fall. His injuries were fortunately not life-threatening, but still serious enough to take him off the roster for the final 4 peaks. But, Nick will continue on, and plans to climb the remaining peaks - Longs, Holy Cross, and Grays & Torreys - by Friday, September 9th.

And, that will be the day of a big celebration for Nick, Joe, Climb For Sudan and Project Education Sudan: the "Top of the Peak" dinner in downtown Denver. It will be a great night featuring former Broncos Celebrity Bartenders, Salida Circus Performers, “Buy a Block, Build a School” Live Auction, Silent Auction including 1st level Broncos tickets, home plate Rockies tickets, spa packages, mountain condos and more, Lost Boys Dance Performance, Sponsor Recognition Ceremony.

But, most importantly, it will be a celebration of all that Joe and Nick accomplished over 70 days in tribute to the challenges and successes of the people of South Sudan.

So, if you're interested, please consider attending the Top of the Peak celebration dinner on September 9th. It promises to be a great event, and in support of an even greater cause. Here's the details:

Hosted by:
Red Peak Properties
1600 Glenarm Place Apartments
Outdoor Amenity Patio
Denver, CO 80202
Friday, September 9, 2011
6:30 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.

$50.00 per person
$25.00 student/young professional
$75.00 at the door

Spirits and Hors d’oeuvres

RSVP via Blacktie Colorado here

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

From Everest to Blackpool: Alfred Gregory's Work on Display & Auction

Alfred Gregory is not exactly a household name, but his work in 1953 was seen by millions around the world. In that year, he was the photographer for the historic expedition which, on May 29, 1953, saw Edmund Hillary and Tenzin Norgay reach the summit of Everest.

Gregory sadly passed away in February, 2010, leaving behind amazing photographic work stored in a large, fireproof box. That work - Alfred Gregory: From Everest to Blackpool - is now on display at Webbs Auction House and Gallery in Auckland, New Zealand, with much of it up for sale at auction as well.

Along with Everest, Gregory also photographed the Rwenzori Mountains and other    areas around the world.

Check out some of the images online at Webbs Auction House and Gallery or, if you're in the area, check it out in person and let us know how it was!

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

It's been a tough few

It's been a tough few days, with massive highs and deep, dark lows. But, we've got an incredible team - Barb, Charlie, Collin, Dan, Ned, and Tim - and are wrapping up an amazing adventure. Read about the past days' triumph, tragedy, tenacity, and teamwork at http://blog.challenge21.com .

A Short Update from Kampala, Uganda

The whole team and I spent the day taking in some of the sights of Kampala today, as well as packing and prepping for the Rwenzori.

We're all here, and we depart for Kasese and the Rwenzori tomorrow morning.

Read more and see some images from Kampala here!

-Jake Norton

 

A Great Need: Water in Rulindo, Rwanda

Hello from Kampala, Uganda!

I just spent a powerful two days in Rulindo, Rwanda, seeing the need for water and sanitation in the district, and see also the amazing work Water For People is doing there.

Please head on over to the Challenge21 blog and read the latest!

-Jake Norton

 

The Rwandan Genocide Memorial Centre

A new post is up (Hope From the Ashes: The Rwandan Genocide Memorial) from me over at the Challenge21 blog from my visit today to the Rwandan Genocide Memorial Center here in Kigali, Rwanda.

An amazing place, with a poignant mixture of horror and hope.

Please stop by, read, and share!

-Jake Norton

Check Out Everest in 3D - pretty cool!

Just stumbled upon this pretty neat YouTube video of the main routes on Everest (Southeast and Northeast Ridges).

It was put together by DLR in Germany, and they did a pretty good job of showing the mountain from a bird's eye view. I just wish it played a bit slower and let you get a better look at some of the features and terrain.

Watch, and enjoy!

 

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

Keeper of the Mountains: A (Much Needed) Film on Liz Hawley

While she's never really been nice to me, she's never really been not-nice either. She's just been, well, Liz. Or Liz Hawley. Or, for those of us who are just a bit afraid of her: Miss Hawley.

She's an amazing woman in all respects, and perhaps the last person one would expect to find living in Kathmandu, Nepal, and documenting the climbing scene. For starters, she's not a climber. She once told me she thought all of us climbers had a screw loose; and, she'd be the authority more than anyone, since she's worked with climbers in Nepal for over 50 years, documenting every ascent of significant peaks in the Nepal Himalaya.

But, she knows the Himalayan peaks better than anyone, and putts around in her 1960's, baby-blue VW Beetle every climbing season to track - and sometime harass - incoming and outgoing climbers. She's a stickler for detail, and is considered the ultimate arbiter when a summit is in dispute.

Prickly as she may be at times, Liz (she somehow has always allowed me to call her that) is a joy to be around. When I see her, I don't expect a sugar coating on anything, just straight up questions, straight up answers, and good conversation, all delivered on schedule.

I last saw her in 2009 after coming off Everest. I hadn't seen her since Gurla Mandhata in 2006 but, from across the lobby of the Yak & Yeti Hotel in Kathmandu, she chirped: Mr. Norton, I have a meeting with you, Mr. Hahn, and others tomorrow at 3:00. Please remind Hahn. I quickly smiled, said yes, and began walking her way to chat. A stern, librarian finger snapped up and stopped me in my tracks. That's all, Mr. Norton. We'll talk more tomorrow. Silenced, I walked off, scribbling the meeting time on the back of my hand with a Sharpie. 

Finally, the work of Liz Hawley, is being recognized by the world outside of Himalayan climbers. In 2011, Eric Hansen wrote a great article on Liz in Outside Magazine, entitled "The High Priestess of Posterity".

And, now, my friend Allison Otto is heading soon to Kathmandu, Nepal, to meet with Liz and begin a documentary film on her life and career as the keeper of the Himalayan record.

But, Allison needs your help to fund the project; please check out the brief introduction below, and then head on over to her project, Keeper of the Mountains, at KickStarter.com, and make a donation!

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.

Thursday Thought: Awareness Into Action from MountainFilm

As many of you know, I'm down here in Telluride for MountainFilm, which this year is focused on the theme of Awareness Into Action.

This afternoon, I attended a symposium on "Do It Yourselfers" who have turned their personal awareness and passions into concrete, successful actions that are changing our world.

There were some amazing, provocative, and inspiring quotes that came out of the sessions, so I thought I'd share them with you as a little inspiring Thursday Thought. Enjoy!

Blessed were the days before you read a president’s message. Blessed are they who never read a newspaper. [They are blessed] for as long as you know of it, you are particeps criminis. What business have you, if you are an “angel of light,” to be pondering over the deeds of darkness?

    - Henry David Thoreau, 1861, taken from Ben Skinner's talk

One person can make a difference, and every person should try.

    - John F. Kennedy, from Dan Austin's talk

It is one's mind which creates the world.

    - Buddha, from Shannon Galpin's talk

You keep talking about what everybody else ain't doing. But, what the hell are you doing about it all?

    - Hilton Kelley

If you're not an activist, you're just a spectator. Don't go through life as a spectator.

    - Hilton Kelley

Jake Norton is an Everest climber, guide, photographer, writer, and motivational speaker from Colorado.